Why You're Not Winning - Showmanship

Showmanship is a popular class. It's also a class a lot of people think is easier than it really is. There are a lot of times exhibitors come out of a class without a ribbon and no idea why they didn't get one. I entitled this "Why You're Not Winning" because if you aren't doing most of these things, you are probably not in the ribbons.

How It's Scored:
Showmanship is scored on a 20 point basis.
Some judges score as 10 points for pattern and 10 points for turn out.
Other judges break it down by quality of run. 19-20 is Excellent, no faults, excellent presentation and pattern. And on down the line.
Most judges do NOT have a "points off" system that I hear so many people claim. "Oh you lost at least 2 points when you crossed over too slow!" No, it's all cumulative on the judges opinion of your run. Most judges (all the good ones) won't be seen writing anything down until the end of the run. If you look down while it's going on, you'll miss something.

At the Cone:
You really ought to be showing your horse before you even reach this marker. At the first marker of your pattern, you should have your horse set up correctly. Unlike halter, in showmanship your horse should have a level or nearly level head set throughout the pattern. You shouldn't pull his head down in front of the judge, as most judges frown on this. Also, be in the correct quarter at the very start of your pattern. Watch your judge for his nod. As soon as he tells you he's ready, get moving. If he's standing there waving at you for 30 seconds to get your attention, you're out. Every second counts in Showmanship. Your pattern should flow seamlessly from beginning to end. At the cone, be ready to go!

Setting Up and Inspection:
You've got about 4 seconds to get your horse set up for inspection. So, practice, practice, practice at home. Remember, you can not touch your horse, point at his feet (with your hand or your own feet), or be loud while telling him what to do. Practice, practice, practice. Haul your horse to different arenas and make him practice at places other than at home. When your horse is set up squarely, if you were to draw a line from his left front to left rear, right front to right rear, left front to right front, and left hind to right hind, you'd have a rectangle. Not a rhombus, trapezoid, etc.
You've got to teach your horse how to set up with minimal movement on your part. Most horses are trained to move their feet by the exhibitor lifting and lowering their hand. Find a way that works for you, and train yourself and your horse to do that.
When you have your horse set up, it is important that you are holding yourself correctly. Stand up tall. Have your right hand on the shank - never switch hands. Keep your elbow slightly bent. For your free arm, hold your free hand up, so your arm is at a right angle. Thumbs on top of your fist, wrists straight. Keep your toes pointing forward. Don't lock your knees. Look up. Keep an eye on the judge, but also check that your horse remains set up. Some judges will look to see you "address" your horse.


Something that seems to give newbies to Shomanship trouble is the Quarter System. The QS dictates where you should be while the judge is inspecting your horse. Here's a diagram (assume the weird brown blob is your horse...):



The lines go from your horses poll to his tail and across his withers. Basically, you should always be on the same side of the judge when he is a rear quarter. When he is in a front quarter, you should be opposite the judge. So, when he is in I you are in II. When he is in II you are in I. When he is in III, you are in II. When he is in IV, you are in I.

You should cross over quickly and effectively. Avoid bumping into your horse. You should point your toes towards the front hoof opposite from you to be in the correct position. Do not forget to address your horse. Take as many steps as you need to cross over cleanly and effortlessly, but don't scuttle across. Do not cross over until the judge has made his way COMPLETELY across the invisible line. The moment his second step is across the line, you should be in the correct quarter. Practice it at home with your trainer, parent, husband, or friend.

Walking:
When you are walking with your horse, most judges prefer to see the exhibitor walking even with the horse's throatlatch. Don't have your horse right on top of you. This is also refered to as the exhibitor being "tight" to the horse. You should be far enough away that the horse won't bump into you as you are traveling.
Walk with a purpose. Look where you are going. Don't look at your horse. Hold your arms in the same way as you would during inspection.

Trotting:
You have to run with the horse! I don't get the people who think that just because their horse will trot while they walk that it's acceptable in a showmanship class. You should be in the same position next to your horse. Practice at home to see what it takes to get your horse trotting from a stand still. A helpful hint: if your horse is a little bit slower to trot off, begin prepping him prior to the marker in order that you don't miss it.

Stopping:
Don't look at the horse. Don't look at the horse. Don't look at the horse. When you are stopping and look at your horse before he has stopped fully, he will swing his haunches out. To teach your horse to stop squarely, practice with the horse between you and the fence. Trot parallel to the fence and stop. The horse can't swing his hind end out because the fence is there to stop him. Once you've stopped, face your horse. If the pattern calls for going to a walk from the trot, you should not face your horse, but rather just transition down.
Do not run over the judge. Stop about 3-4 feet from the judge. It is important that whenever you are approaching a judge that you line your horse up with him, NOT yourself. Remember, showmanship is showing your HORSE. You will be slightly off to the judge's left.

Pivots:
Pivots seem to cause a lot of problems for people. It involves a lot of practice at home. Teach your horse to move his shoulders away and cross over when you walk at him. You should never, ever touch your horse to get him to turn. The horse should plant a pivot foot. A lot of judges don't mind which foot the horse plants, as long as he does it and keeps it planted through out the rotation. The horse should keep a straight line from poll to tail.
It's important that you don't push your horse backwards through a pivot because he is likely to step out and just back around his turn. Instead, focus on lateral forward movement.
Make sure you cue your horse to turn at the same time as you start moving towards him so you don't run into his face. Most exhibitors like to walk at the horse's nose as it leaves you in better position to leave the pivot.

Pull Turns:
Pull turns aren't quite as popular anymore as a lot of judges don't feel that they are very safe. And they aren't, really. When doing a pull turn, you need to face the horse and step backwards. The horse should plant and turn on the hindquarter.
Pull turns should never be bigger than 90 degrees. If a pattern calls for a larger one, contest it at the show office.

Backing:
When backing, face your horse. Do not stand directly in front of him. This is another thing to practice at home. When you walk at him, he goes backward quickly and in a straight line. Practice backing the same as practicing stopping - against the fence. This will get your horse backing straighter more easily.

Things to Avoid:

• Don't ever have your hand on the chain.
• Don't have more than one coil of "tail". One large loop is it. Do not have your loop tight around your hand.
• Don't touch your horse
• Don't ever stop showing.

Helpful Exercises:

• When practicing leading your horse to the judge, pick a tree or a fence post and practice taking your horse straight to it at both a walk and a trot. Some horses don't like going towards people straight on, so practice at home.
• Get a friend to video tape you. If you've got a trainer, have them tape you so that you can go over the footage together. Once you can see what you are doing, you'll know what's right, and what needs to be fixed.
• Smile, relax, and have fun with it. Showmanship can be a fun class if you do your homework and don't make it tougher than necessary. Judges love smiles!

The deal with showmanship is that it's something you can practice with your horse every single time you lead him. So, saying you don't ever get to practice is no excuse. Practice makes perfect!

On Finding a Trainer

There are those who go it alone and do well. There are those that go it alone and royally blow it. There are those with a trainer that gets them to World level. There are those with trainers that don't know jack. It's up to you to decide what route you are going to take with your horse. Are you skilled enough to produce an end product in 90 days or less that is ready to go into the pen and ride out with a ribbon? Are you competitive and dedicated enough to do it on your own? Or, are you willing to let another person coach you and your horse to accomplish your goals? Unless you yourself are a trainer with the belt buckle to prove it, chances are you should look into a trainer to help you advance your horse and your own riding to a level that is competitive and you're happy with it. At least invest in lessons either on a school horse or your own noble steed so you can troubleshoot any problems or bad habits you've picked up over the years.

Finding a trainer is a lot like finding a prospect. You need to find someone who you mesh with and can see yourself working with for the next several months (at least!). Sit down and figure it up. Get your handy dandy notebook ready and ask yourself:

• How much do I want to pay for lessons/training?
• How far am I willing to travel?
• Will I be leaving with my horse with my trainer?
• How experienced should my trainer be? At what level should they be competitive?
• Do they have experience in my event?

Too many times, people only pay attention to how much they are going to pay and how far they have to travel. You know what you end up with? Your kid taking Western Pleasure lessons from a barrel racer whose best advice is to ride every time in draw reins and go to a harder bit.

When you are considering a trainer, ask them if you can sit in on a lesson and watch. Most trainers and instructors are happy to let you. If a trainer says "No" thank them for their time and move on.

Now, some people want trainers that sugar coat things. And that's great. Some people want trainers that get them in the ribbons. That's great too. The most important thing is to be happy with the results.

For example, a cutting trainer yells at his youth riders when they mess up. He pushes them to the limit. Kids leave lessons crying. But, they win and that makes up for it, so they go back.

Another trainer's kids rarely break the top 3 of an average sized class. The trainer teaches with kindness and rarely corrects the kids. The kids come back because they are having fun.

To each their own, whatever makes you happy. Now, there are trainers that are kind and produce winners, and kudos to you if you find one that works for you! Keep going back and improving your own skills.

Remember, you want to do whatever it takes to make your horse more valuable and wanted by somebody else. That may include sending him to a trainer to get him going to the best of his abilities. Nobody wants an unbroke 12 year old. Nobody wants to buy a horse off of a video where his rider is flopping like a fish out of water. Get you and your horse some o' that thar fancy learnin' and you'll be just fine.

English Horses Need Lovin' Too!

There's a common misconception for hunter horses. That misconception is that you can throw an english saddle on his back, a browband bridle on his face and go show. But there is a lot more to finding tack for the show pen than just whatever you can find in the tack room of the barn. Believe it or not, there are styles and trends that go along with showing the hunters in the AQHA/APHA world.

Let's get it started with the bit:

English bits for the flat are pretty simple. While it's important that you use a bit that works for both you and your horse, majority of horses going into the pen are sporting D-Ring snaffles or Kimberwickes. Full cheek snaffles aren't used in flat classes very often. They give the horse a funny profile, a lot of extra silver around his face. Plus, the full cheek won't let the rein have the kind of slight, tiny, minimal little itty bitty drape that a lot of horses are traveling on these days. (This does NOT mean throwing away reins like you're on a western horse, it means not attempting to pull your horse into a frame and ripping off his lower jaw.) Some horses go in Kimberwickes. Kimberwickes are not a snaffle bit. They are curbs. They have leverage. Generally, you won't see just a ton of Kimberwickes in the flat hunter classes. No reason other than a lot of horses don't need them and the simple D-Ring looks so much nicer. O-Ring snaffles should not be used in English classes -- they are western bits.

The Bridle:

The bridle has to be a browband bridle with a noseband or cavesson. Flash nosebands are not permitted on the flat. The bridle should be well fitted, clean, and the leather color should match your saddle as much as possible. This is the type of bridle you need:

The Saddle:

Number one with the saddle, it has to fit both the horse and rider. Once you've got that in mind, think about what is hot to trot: lighter colored saddles with the same color leather over the padded flap. Padded flaps and knee blocks are not necessary for a rider with a strong, secure leg, but for a beginner rider or a looser legged individual, the knee blocks and padded flaps are very helpful for the rider to balance off of while posting. Flaps with the hideous light colored suede are very much out of style. Clean your saddle after each ride to prevent the build up of "jockeys" -- those annoying black or dark brown "film" that builds up from the stirrup leather. Also, keep your saddle covered when not in use. Remember that there are different types of seats for english saddles - all purpose or close contact are the most common used for flat classes. Jumping saddles give the rider a more forward seat and for a beginner rider, it is not a good choice. Synthetic saddles are not allowed in AQHA/APHA shows. In fact, a lot of shows are not allowing them anymore. They just look tacky, people.

The Saddle Pad:

Square quilted pads are fine for riding at home, but they are not for the show pen. In fact, the only time these pads are allowed are for Open Jumping classes. Instead, invest a pad especially for the showring. Most shows are encouraging riders to use pads that have special sleeves for the numbers. It is much easier on the judge to see your number if it's on the horse's profile.

The Girth:

English girths should be leather. Neoprene, felt, or nylon string (!) girths should not be used in the pen. The girth should be long enough that it fits the horse without the need of girth extenders. Girth extenders only add bulk beneath your leg and make it harder on you to maintain the proper amount of leg contact on your horse.

Things Not To Use:

Breastplates, cruppers, crops. Really? Does your horse REALLY need a crop on the flat? Are you afraid he'll refuse going in the gate? Seriously, you shouldn't need one, or carry one.

English Riders need Lovin' Too!

Hunter events are based in tradition. Therefore, the clothing style rarely changes other than color. The "rules" concerning what to wear in a Hunter type class (be it on the flat or over fences) are absolute. In this episode, we'll tell you what's acceptable and what's in style. Short and sweet, baby.

Helmets:
Helmets are required for any hunter type class. For fence classes, a chin strap is required and they should be SEI certified. For rail/flat classes, riders use what is known as a Hunt Cap. These caps are generally not approved, and they do not have a chin strap. The hunt cap gives a cleaner and neater appearance. They are also fairly inexpensive. Helmets for flat classes should be velvet. The plastic troxels are not appreciated because they look tacky. If you can't get a velvet cap, get a velvet or black cover for your plastic cap. Don't ever ride out to show in a white plastic helmet. Hunt caps should be black, navy, or gray only. Typically they are black.

Ratcatchers:
Ratcatchers are the shirts used for hunters. Most have a detachable collar that is put on to have a stand up appearance. It should connect (usually velcro) at the back of your neck. The front part is "solid" and you should use a pin with it to complete the look. The color of your shirt is really up to you. Popular colors include pink, blue, yellow, and purple. These are usually pastel-y colors. Outrageous lime green is not acceptable. Some shirts have small patterns (like checks or pinstripes) and these are perfectly fine and currently in style. Ratcatchers come in all sleeve lengths from no sleeves to long. As long as you have a hunt coat on, you can wear a shirt without sleeves, especially during those hot summer shows. Keep your color simple and make sure it goes well with your hunt coat.

Hunt Coats:
Hunt coats and the blazer you bought at JC Penny's are two different things. They are cut differently and you shouldn't ever go out showing in a blazer. Hunt coats should be black, blue, brown, or gray. Red or Burgundy are never acceptable in AQHA/APHA/NSBA/ApHC shows. So, don't try. Also, those hideous velvet collars of the 80s are gone. They aren't coming back either. Your hunt coat should be fairly fitted. Make sure the sleeves are long enough so that when you bend your elbow, it doesn't look like you are wearing a 3/4 sleeve jacket.

Breeches:
Breeches come in a lot of crazy colors. Unfortunately for those of you who love the bright pink breeches, they aren't acceptable. Colors for hunter classes are tan, olive, grey. Some people still insist on wearing those ugly rust colored breeches, but those went out with the velvet collars. The only color I would ever recommend wearing in any AQHA/APHA/ApHC show is tan. Some people call tan different things like "buff" or whatever, but the idea is that it's a sandy tan color. Grey and Olive are fine for weekend shows, but I wouldn't advise wearing them any where else. Breeches should be fairly tight. I know, you want to hide the thighs and bum (I do too!) but if you're breeches are baggy and loose it looks messy, messy, messy!

Boots:
To compete at the higher level, boots need to be black, leather, field type boots. Rubber boots (not the kind you'd use during a rainstorm....they make rubber "lookalike" boots) are only okay at an open show. The trained eye can spot a pair of rubber boots across the pen with a glare from the sun. While you could use brown boots, I don't think I ever have seen anyone do it. Black is the rage! Make sure your boots are tall enough that the tops hit right below your knee. Also, ride in them when practicing and not just when showing because you'll ride differently in them than you would half chaps or cowboy boots. In regards to half chaps and boots: this is only acceptable at open shows. You should only wear your half chaps with paddock boots if you are showing in them because with cowboy boots it looks weird. You'll look like you have clown feet. Trust me.

Spurs:
You know that thing on the back of your boot? It's called a spur rest. Your spur sits on top of it. Spurs for english are not like spurs for western. they sit up high versus the western spur on the heel. Also, the end should be blunt and short. Long spurs are not acceptable and some judges will throw you out because of it.

Earrings:
Earrings for hunter riders need to be minimal. Small studs, no dangles. Much more than that and you are toeing the tradition line. Think about foxhunting...that big hoop that could double as a bracelet getting ripped out on a tree branch......YEEEEOOOOOW!

Hair:
Hair goes up! Either in a net or pinned under your cap. Your hair shouldn't ever be in a long ponytail and definitely should never be loose with the exception of it being short enough that it can be left down without falling past the nape of your neck. If you have super thick hair, put the top half in a ponytail on the top of your head so it will be underneath your cap and put the lower part in a net. You'll look crazy when you don't have your cap on, but it will look fine once you get that cap on.

That about covers the wardrobe for the english rider. Happy showing!

Staying Fashionable - Western Show Tack

You know you've seen it: The person riding into the arena with the violent neon nylon tack....as Nancy Kerrigan says, "WHHHHHYYYYY??!!" If you are going to take the time to make your self look good, why not tidy up Spanky while you're at it? Spending money on your show clothes is pointless if you are not going to spend the money on your horse's tack. Properly adjusted and fitting tack is a must for the show ring. You look ridiculous without it, and chances are you're poorly fitting saddle is pinching your horse so he can't move correctly. Might as well of saved the entry fees.

The Rundown:
Bits:
Ah, yes, the bits are back! (Refer to "Leading Into Western Tack..." for more information on bits). Fads come and go, and we like to see our bridle horses (5 or over) in a shank bit with a bit of the fancy shmancy etching on the shank. Silver only.

Like the one seen at right. Don't worry, it's easy to find them in different mouth pieces.

Snaffle Bit horses are those 4 and under. But, snaffles are pretty out of style in the show ring. Bosals are all the rage, they look nice, your mecate drapes so nicely off so you can show your horse on a loose rein, but it's easy to pick up and fix the horse's face quickly if needed, without all the mouth opening and avoiding of the bit you would get in a snaffle. Bosals need to be legal. They have to be rawhide covered...no metal, no Quik Stops! Rope halters are not the same thing as a bosal. I understand that some people buy rope halters that have rawhide plaited around the noseband. These are not, not, not, not bosals and are completely unacceptable in showing! This is the type of bosal you need. These are 12-plait bosals, but you could also use an 8-plait at minimum.

Headstalls:

What's in is simple, two ear headstalls with silver. Browband are really, really, outdated now. Two ears are used with bosals and shanked bits, so if you're following the fashion rules, you should be okay. No worries. Two eared headstall with silver. They don't have to be top of the line, but they need to be clean and not have completely cheap silver plating that comes off the first time you try to clean it. Light oil is in. Dark oil and Black tack is completely out of style for AQHA and APHA classes. Like this one:

Saddles:

There are some people out there who think they will never win without a saddle covered in silver and get all sorts of butt hurt when their horse loses the class. More often than not, they are bouncing around on an old roping saddle and the horse is going to 90 to nothing.

For saddles, if you want to sit correctly for western performance classes, you need an equitation type saddle. These seats will put you in the correct position for horsemanship and all those "slow" classes. I also prefer to have my saddles with the "cut out" or "butterfly" skirt, depending on what you call it. This is where the skirt is cut out from where your leg goes and gives you better contact with the horse. It also won't push your thighs away from the saddle and lets you keep a better leg position.

Your saddle doesn't have to be coated in silver, but there are some rules you should stand by. Square skirts only. Round skirted saddles are for trail riders and barrel racers. If you don't want to look like Billy Bob come to show, get a square skirt saddle. Also, your saddle needs to be a light oil. Like I said, dark oil and black are pretty out of style. If that's all you have to work with, that's okay, just make sure no matter what color your saddle is, it is clean. This is the kind of saddle that a lot of people are afraid to invest in:

This particular saddle retails for under $5000.00 which is pretty darn good for the quality! However, if you are afraid of a lot of silver or are going to be doing a lot of other riding in your show saddle you may want to invest in a saddle like this:This is actually a reining saddle, but it would work for all around events provided you have the lower leg strength to keep your legs in position.

No matter what kind of saddle you get, it is important that it fits both you and your horse.

Back cinches are not to be used in showing western performance classes. Neither are those super long tie strings that people put on their saddle to.....tie themselves in? I don't really know what those are for.

What we didn't mention: Breastcollars.

Why we didn't mention them: They are so far out of style it isn't even funny. I cringe when I see someone showing in one.

Of Breeding and Prospects

Because I can no longer keep my big trap shut, I have to address an issue that drives me nuts.

I understand that you don't want to show AQHA/APHA/ApHC. That's fine. But why, why, why does that mean that you breed your horse to have a foal in July or August?! I feel faint every time I see someone's brand new baby pictures...in the middle of a heatwave....in the middle of summer...meaning that the foal will be weaned in December or January. Poor little thing. By the time this adorable little thing will be considered a "weanling" by you, he's a "yearling" by everyone else's standards. This means that he has to show against horses that were born in the Feb./March/April range. This means bigger, badder competition. And you'll wonder why he doesn't place.

Maybe you aren't ever planning on showing Little Paint, but if you plan on selling him, you have to realize that there are some people out there who may be looking for a prospect to show. You want your weanlings, yearlings, and two year olds to be marketable. Why the hell would anyone breed for anything that they couldn't sell if they got in a pinch?

I'm not saying that every single foal born has to be a future show horse, I'm saying that every single foal born should be of value to someone besides his barn blind owner. It can be because he is pretty, it can be because he's thick, stout, and someone wants him as a roping or cowhorse. I am going to say right now to everyone who posts their babies pictures on the internet, when people tell you "Oh how cute!" and that's it....it's usually because there is nothing else to say about it. "Oh how cute!" is a great standby for babies with nuttin' to 'em. "He has a kind eye." is a good one for older horses. No matter how gawd awful the horse is, you can make the owner feel some pride for owning the old boy.

Now, on to talking about prospects. I think a lot of people go out looking for future show horses without a real idea of what to look for. We'll be covering Halter and Performance prospects as well as a guide to looking for them.

The first thing do if you yourself are not familiar with young horses is to find a reliable trainer in your area in the event that you want to break into and build a relationship with them before you begin your search. Find out from them, what they like in a prospect and consider working with this person to help you on your way to the show ring. A lot of people shy away from trainer's and prefer the DIY route, which is fine if you know what you are doing. If you aren't prepared to be able to go in the show ring in 90 days or less, you probably aren't ready to train your own show horse. (We'll do an "Episode" on trainers in the future.)

Don't buy the first horse you see. General rule, right? If you like the horse, talk to the owner. Tell them that you are going to look at some other horses and you are interested but need some time to decide. Be honest. If you decide against buying the horse, call the owner and tell them "Thank you, but I found another horse that fits my needs a little better. Thanks for everythign and I hope you find him a good home!" Don't leave them hanging. Maybe you'll be looking for another horse further down the road, the owner's you turn down may have a horse that you like in the future.

Go to lots of barns. Big names, little names, no names. Check out the horses. Look at the babies out in the pasture and see if one catches your eye. Check him out up close. Consult with your trainer about the horse. Vet check. Consult with your trainer about the horse. Compare to Other horses you have looked at. Yea/Nay. Thank you, come again!

Now let's get to the nitty gritty.

Halter Prospects

Halter babies should be balanced from the get go. Long laid back shoulder, short back, long hip. Wide from the front and rear. Clean, straight legs. Don't rely on "Oh, we can straighten him up later" because you may not be able to. I also like for anything that is being considered as a prospect to have nearly level knees and hocks. This tells you that even though the horse may be butt-high now (and what baby isn't?!), but he will level out at an adult and once he begins to grow at a more steady pace rather than the frantic BUTT! WITHERS! BUTT! WITHERS!

We'll compare two weanling fillies found at random. (I'm not trying to rag on people's horses, I'm trying to show what to look for in babies.)

This filly is one I really like. Sure, she isn't fit all the way to go in the show ring yet, but she will be. Check out her neck! Long, thin, and it ties high into the shoulder. Looking at this filly, there's no doubt that she is a girl. Her shoulder goes clear from here to next week. Long, and pretty. She has a great short, strong back, and a hip that mirrors her shoulder. Yes, she is a little butt high, and her hocks are a tad higher than her knees. However, the high white stockings on her front end will mask that. They give the appearance of height to her front end. If you just glanced at the picture, you probably wouldn't notice it. This is a filly I would love to have in my barn.

While there is a lot that you can appreciate about this filly. There are a couple issues that I don't like. She does have a nice neck, but the second you scroll down to see her front legs, a red flag goes up. This filly is already showing the signs of bucking over at the knee, and when put into training and fitting, her little knees will take the plunge over the edge and out of the ribbons. Her shoulder is of good length, she is butt-high considerably more than the first filly, but I like the length to her hip. She would make a good horse for a 4-Her looking for a prospect. Provided that her knees stay sound, she would make a nice all around prospect.

Performance Prospects

Basically, we look for the same thing, a balanced, structurally correct colt. We add one more thing: Movement. Performance is all about how a horse moves, so it is important to see the foal in action out in the pasture so you can see what is naturally there and what you have to work with. Look for a baby that reaches out with his front end while driving off the hind. Look for a flat knee, and for those little hind feet to be hitting far underneath the body. Don't always rely on "I can teach him to carry himself better". You may not be able to. If the horse hasn't naturally "got it" it will be tough and frustrating to teach him. Once again, random horses that fit the bill. Of all the "In Motion" pictures I went through, I couldn't find one that I didn't like or couldn't justify the picture being taken at a weird time/angle to make them look weird.

So for your viewing pleasure, we have two little beauties:

Notice the naturally level topline. Notice the flat knee as it hits the ground. See how far this little guy is driving beneath himself? He's walking in this picture and I'm ready to take him home. Any little horse that can show that much natural style at a walk gets my vote as the next American Idol. He's not bad to look at either. Straight legs, neat little baby muscles. Watch out Performance Halter!

Geez, Louise! This baby's knee is so flat you could use it as a table. (That's a good thing...) See how this little not even weaned filly stretches out that front leg and has it straight before even hitting the ground? Good news, she's Appendix (and out of one of my favorite Quarter Horse sires) so all you Hunters get your checkbooks ready. This filly naturally elevates her shoulders while staying remarkably level for a baby that's playing. In the right hands, this little lady will go far. If her knee is this good cantering, I'd probably swoon watching her trot.

Hopefully, this gave you guys some pointers for babies. Good luck finding "The One"!

Tune in next time!

Leading into Proper Western Tack with a Bit of an Issue

Pun intended.

A horse's bit is usually one of the first things people think of when they are having problems with their horse. Sometimes it is, but it's usually a combination of issues. (Saddle fit, needing a chiropractor, until eventually, eventually the rider looks at herself.)

Bits are important in the showring because they can definitely get you DQ'ed from a class if you're riding your horse in something that The Big Dogs deem illegal. (Think AQHA.)

Ready, Set, Start Your Printers....The Handy Dandy Wabbity Guide Bits!
Step One - Get Your Bit.
Step Two - Look at your bit closely.
Step Three - Ask yourself, "How old is Ol' Paint?" If he is five or older (by January 1, not his actual birthday) he needs to be in a curb bit. If he is four or under, he may be shown in a snaffle or a more stylish bosal.

So, what is the difference between a snaffle and a curb? Simply, a curb bit applies leverage. The reins and headstall attach to the bit in different slots or holes. The curb bit requires a curb strap or chain. Some horses do not need an actual chain and a plain leather curb strap will work. The general rule for the tightness of a curb strap is that you can put three fingers easily between the strap/chain and your horse's jaw when it is loose. The curb bit is made of a purchase (the part above the mouthpiece), the shank (often refered to as the entire "side" of the bit), and the mouthpiece. Curb bits apply pressure to the horse's poll, bars, and jaw. Examples of curb bits: Tom Thumbs (more on them in another post), Kimberwicke, Grazing Bits, Correction Bits...etc, etc, etc. Anything with leverage where the headstall and reins attach to different holes is a curb bit.

A snaffle comes in many varieties. They can have smooth mouthpieces, slow twists, corkscrew, twisted wire, French Links, Dr. Bristols...etc. They can have O-rings, D-Rings, Egg-Butt Rings, Full Cheek....etc. All that counts toward the bit being a snaffle is that the headstall and reins attach into the same continuous ring. The only snaffle bit that is deemed as a western-type snaffle is an O-Ring.

A snaffle bit requires the person to ride with two hands. A curb bit requires the person to ride one-handed. Some open shows may allow you to ride with two hands, but two-handing in a curb bit will keep you out of the ribbons in a Quarter Horse or APHA Show. When riding with a curb, the person should have only one finger between the reins and any more than that is a disqualification. Typically, Western horses are not shown in snaffle bits - unless they are Foundation Quarter Horse of course! Junior horses are shown in bosals. Bosals also require the horse to be ridden with two hands. The mecate should be properly tied . Bosals are more stylish and are the "it" item for Junior horses for various reasons.

The Rules for AQHA can be viewed at www.aqha.com.

A horse going in a curb bit on a loose rein shows brokeness. So, so many times I here "He goes so well in a snaffle, I've never thought of moving him to a harsher curb bit. Why would I want to?"

Here is the snarky brutally honest person coming out: IT SHOWS BROKENESS. Why, why, why would anyone go to look at a nine year old going in only a snaffle? I sure know that when I am cruising the classifieds looking for a horse, the horse that is "Super Gentle on the Trails! Bombproof!" and in a snaffle is skipped right over. A horse that goes well in a curb can go well in a snaffle too. If you want to ride him in a snaffle, it should be the same as riding him in a curb. Maybe it's because when you have a curb bit, your horse might flip over on top of you while you have a death grip on his face. I really don't know. In my opinion if the horse is four years old and going to be ridden Western, he should be able to be ridden in a curb bit on a loose rein without excessive guiding, jerking, or hauling on the face to get to stop. The only exception to my rule is the horse that is English specific and won't be used for Western events.

Stallions (that are not English only) should be ridden in a curb bit. If they are old enough for you to be breeding them to anything and everything, they should be broke enough to be ridden through the gate into a show ring in a curb bit...and win.

Stay Tuned!

Tuning in to Men's Western Show Clothes

Guys, you've got to look good! On the bright side, guys western show clothing rarely changes and is fairly simple to get your hands on. We'll be breaking it down Barney style with a seperate part for halter/showmanship and riding. Quick, simple, and to the point. Ready, set, go!

Halter and Showmanship
The same rule concerning hats for girls stands for guys as well. That means a nicely shaped western felt cowboy hat in a normal color. No cowhide brims, no Wrangler or beer company patches, none of those goofy little brands...plain felt cowboy hat. Got it? Good.

Next up, the actual clothes. Do you work a 9-5 (or have a seen a movie where someone does)? It's called a suit! Some guys go for a western styled and tailored suit, which is great, or you can go for a plain suit. A tie is a must. If it's a summer or open show, you can go with the other classic male standby: a solid shirt, a tie, and khaki pants. NO PLAID. Plaid is for Al from Home Improvement. You're a horseman not a toolman/lumberjack.

Boots. Pretty simple there. Your boots should match your suit. Remember the whole brown belt, brown shoes rule? It still applies. Brown suit/brown boots, black suit/black boots. The last thing you want is for a bunch of 16 year-olds point out your faux pas.

Wow, that was quick! Guys, you're lucky. No make-up! But, your hair should still be neat and brushed. If you've got long hair, either get a hair cut, put in a low ponytail, pin it under your hat, or just go ahead and start your Poison tribute band and leave the horse showing to the people who are going to make an effort to look good.

Clothes for Riding
The hat. (Duh, right?) Clean, well-shaped, normal color.

The shirt should be a solid color. You can spring for a color that looks good with your horse like light blue or lavender with a deep bay. Match your saddle pad to your shirt. If you want, you can wear a white shirt and match your scarf to your saddle pad. The scarf is a necessity. Check them out: http://www.rods.com/p/1041,377_Solid-Show-Ties-for-Men.html Ties are not for riding. They are strictly for halter/showmanship.

Chaps are pretty much necessary. They look good! You look finished, polished, and more professional with chaps. Guys chaps come in essentially three colors: sand, chocolate, and black. Your chaps should go with your shirt, and should be the same color as your hat.

Boots should match in there as well. Use the same boots from showmanship, it doesn't matter as long as they aren't sticking out like a sore thumb.

Guys have it so easy when it comes to showing horses...at least finding the clothes! Go out and show off your superior western performance fashion knowledge the best way you know how....showing those purdy horses!

The Pilot - Ladies Western Show Clothes

Today's Edition: Clothing for the Western Exhibitors (For the Girls!)
( Please note: For some reason, the sizing on the fonts went crazy when I published this. I can't fix it no matter what I try. The words that are super huge were not meant to be like that. That is all.)

For anyone out there about to enter a show ring, allow me to clearly state: Your outfit is the judge's first impression of you! Recently, I discovered that there are many, many people living in the past (think 70's and 80's) in terms of western show clothes. Today, we will attempt to rectify this error with a top to bottom in and out list of show clothes.

Hats:
Out: Flat brims, straw hats, or any color other than white, sand, chocolate, black, or silverbelly.
Rule number one, uno, the unwritten law for the western showman is that the hat makes the outfit. Flat brims scream "I don't know what I'm doing!" and make you look like a mushroom. The hat is the first giveaway if you are a total newbie to showing. Those big flat trail rider hats that are so favored by the mounted shooters are a NO-GO. Much like the flat brimmed, unshaped cowboy hat, this particular style of hat says "I'm punchy! I trail ride and thunk to myself I might just try that fancy horse showin'!" The same goes for those simply adorable crushed straw hats with the curled up brim...wear it to the beach or to the mall. There is no place in the showring for that kind of trash.

In: The classic well-shaped cowboy hat.
Ladies, check out the Hobby Horse hat: http://www.hobbyhorseinc.com/07_shopping/hats/hats_index.shtml
A nicely shaped hat speaks wonders. Your hat should be felt. A straw hat can be acceptable at a summer open horse show, but if you're outfit is black or a color that would not go well with a light colored straw, stick with the felt.
If you already have a felt hat, take it to your local western wear store and have them shape it for you. They may also be able to clean your hat. Keep your hat in a hard hat case when not in use. Keep it inside in cool temperatures to keep it from warping or going back to it's old flat shape (especially in humidity.) Also, if you get rained on, take your hat back in for reshaping before your next show.

Make-Up
Out: No make-up at all, so much make-up it can be seen from the moon.
Wearing no make-up at all seems to be a thing with the older ladies returning or just breaking into the showring. Girls, I don't care if you "aren't a girly girl," the fact remains that if you are going to show horses, you don't want to leave the judge wondering if you're a man or a woman. Make-up is a necessity. Likewise, it is possible to go overboard with the make-up (most notably blush) for showing. Typically, rail make-up is reserved for the rail, wear a smattering of blush for your showmanship and halter classes, and then reapply before going in for your riding classes. We're showing horses, not working the main stage at the Golden Nugget.

In: Tastefully done make-up, including mascara, blush, and lipstick.
Mascara, blush, and lipstick are the big three in the world of showing horses. They are your best friends, get to know them and invest in good quality make-up that won't sweat off during the day or fade as the show goes on. The cheap dollar store make-up won't cut it. I recommend Max Factor high volume mascara. It doesn't sweat off for the most part and goes on without clumping. Physicians Formula mineral blush is great, it doesn't clog your pores and you can wear a little bit for showmanship and put on more for the rail. If you don't know how to properly apply mascara, blush, or lipstick (and I'm so hoping you already do!) find a younger girl at work (for the older girls), you younger girls that don't trust Mom's judgement (you saw her prom pictures...) find an older girl at the show, or at school that can help you out.

Jewelry:
Out: Bolo ties, those conchos with the tassles, no jewelry at all.
I don't think I've seen a bolo tie on a serious exhibitor....ever. Mainly because when I was showing in the 80's it was leadline or walk-trot pony classes. But, hey, those conchos with the horsehair tassles fall in the same category. Wearing a bolo tie or concho pin at a horse show is like wearing parachute pants to your sister's wedding. Everyone is mortified for you and nobody wants to be seen speaking with you. Remember prom night? When everyone sat in the bathroom talking about your super puffy sleeves and how hideous they were? Same thing at a horse show if you're wearing a bolo or concho...except people sit in their living quarters trailer to laugh. No jewelry at all is another no-no. Remember, you want the judge to know you are girl!

In: Pendant necklaces, crystal earrings, scarves
The single exception to the necklace or scarf rule is a shirt that your shirt has a high collar or zips up high enough that one wouldn't be seen. If you are wearing an open collar shirt, find a blingin' pendant on a stable chain or choker. Nothing long and nothing that would flop around as you ride. Crystal earrings are practically a requisite. They don't have to be huge (and no dangly, earrings!) but you need a little sparkle. Scarves are fine if tied properly. Roll the scarf and either tie it in a square knot with the tails off center or get a slider that is either silver or sparkly. (check out http://www.sstack.com/).

Shirts:
Out: Tuxedo Shirts, plain slinkies, Garth Brooks Shirts, see through sleeves, vests, poofy sleeves
You know what I mean by Garth Brooks shirts -- those huge contrasting color blocks that Mr. Brooks loved so much. Sadly, Garth was never in style with these terrible shirts, and if you wear it in the showring, you're as far out of style as he is. They aren't attractive. End of story. Tuxedo shirts! Geez! Who came up with the idea of pairing one of these things with a vest? And not even attractive vests at that. Vests are pretty much the pocket protectors of the western showring. Vests are never, ever, ever, under any circumstance, appropriate for halter or showmanship classes. (Ever.) Plain slinkies are just as far out of style as the tuxedo shirt. A plain colored slinky does not create an attractive outline for the rider and it sticks out like a sore thumb in a sea of more professional-appearing riders. See-Through and Puffy Sleeves need to go back to the 80's prom dress. They are just as tacky for showing horses as they are for wearing to the mall. Keep them in a box in the attic or throw them out when nobody is looking. The chance of these styles coming back into fashion is about the same as my making it into the WNBA. That is to say, zero.

In: Collars and cuffs, super slinkies, bold patterns, rhinestones.
The collars and cuffs came back into style several years ago and they aren't leaving. It looks good. They are sometimes called Tunic Blouses, and they can usually be worn out for Showmanship and Halter and tucked in for riding. A good shirt in this style is a great investment. Remember to have your cuffs pulled back and not flopping down. Have it cleaned regularly. Super slinkies have some kind of applique and design and usually have a matching vest. This is one of the few exceptions to the vest rule. A pretty, stylish vest can be worn in the following classes: Trail, Western Riding, Reining, Working Cow Horse. The vests worn in these classes typically have some kind of fringe and are fitted. Rhinestones are in style and will probably always be. Bling creates a more finished and stylish appearance and under the bright lights of the arena, you'll sparkle like a diamond...or that buckle you're trying to win! Bold patterns and colors are in as well. Bright kelly green, red, blue, pink, they're all good, but don't limit yourself to those colors. The most important thing about colors for showing is that it matches your horse and your saddle pad. A lot of people seem to be hung up on hunter greens and navy blues, but I am going to say right now, that lighter colors look so much better. They are brighter and more fun, and it looks more like you know what's hip!

Hands:
Out: Gloves
Gloves are out. Black, colored to match your shirt. I don't care. They are out of style. Period.

In: Manicures
A nice manicure looks great and is much more stylish than covering up with gloves. You don't have to go all out and get the acrylics, but have your own nails buffed, polished, and shaped. No colored nail polish. Go for a nice French tip.

Pants and Chaps:
Out: Too short pants, scalloped chaps
Your pants need to be long enough that they don't show the top of your boots when walking or running in showmanship. If you don't have chaps and are riding, they should be stacked enough to not ride up and make you look like you have high waters on. Chaps look great and I love a good turn out with matching chaps, but scallops instead of fringe is about as tacky as it comes.

In: Matching chaps and pants
Basically, if your showmanship top is blue, your pants should be blue too. It looks better, more put together and creates a more pleasing line for the eye. The same goes for when riding. If your shirt is predominantly red, invest in a good pair or smooth red chaps that have been dyed to match your shirt. It looks good and once again creates a nicer line.

Boots:
Out: Motorcycle boots, boots with the silver toe tips
They were never in style. I just want to make sure that nobody ever wears them in a horse show.

In: Boots dyed to match your outfit.
Wearing an all red outfit? Why not match the boots too? It looks nicer both in showmanship and halter and riding. Check out http://www.thebootlady.com/ for custom dyed boots. Your boots should be the plain Justins for the showmanship class.

Hopefully this gives some insight into the correct fashion for western classes. Check out the following sites for more ideas:
http://www.conniescustoms.com/
http://www.karenskustoms.com/
http://www.pleasureperfect.com/

If you are looking for cheaper outfits similar to those shown on these sites, I recommend looking on www.ebay.com. Know what you are looking for and measure carefully before bidding.